OUT-OF-TOWN RESTAURANTS

As ever, book ahead during the summer (and read all the way down to the end! Lots to recommend)

Château du Rivau (25km/20 mins) has a very good restaurant open during the spring and summer months only, called Le Jardin Secret.

Le Ververt (22km/25 mins) in picturesque Montsoreau also offers excellent food, all year round, paired with an excellent wine list (ask to sit outside ‘sur terrace’ if it’s warm weather). Food is beautifully presented yet without being nouvelle cuisine. One of my favourites.

A slightly more rustic and atmospheric choice if you are in the Montsoreau area would be the Auberge de la Route d’Or (20km/25 mins), found at the foot of the steps of an old church in pretty Candes-Saint-Martin, which is a charming village overlooking the confluence of the Vienne and the Loire (see PICNICS AND WILD SWIMMING) and sits right next to Montsoreau.

In nearby Azay-le-Rideau (combine your visit with a look around the recently refurbished Château d’Azay - see WHICH CHATEAUX) try L’Épine (21km/20 mins)

Le Terrier du Chateau (35km/40 mins) is in Saumur, with a rather splendid view of the château. Combine your lunch with a trip to Saumur’s bustling Saturday morning market and call in to historic Fontevraud on the way back to La Fuye.

If you are in Tours, then our choice is always Le Molière (52km/45 mins), the brasserie in the beautiful old building next to the Opera House. It’s always full and serves classic dishes.

Other nearby local, but charming, possibilities include the rustic riverside Café de la Loire in Chouzé-sur-Loire (15km/20 mins) run by Martine and her family. She has exquisite taste and used to own the Brocante shop in Chinon, so expect paired down simplicity with a menu to match. One of the few restaurants that has a view of the Loire without a busy road in front of it. Booking is essential. They are only open Thursday-Sunday for lunch and dinner (although dinner is just an assiette: she only cooks at lunchtime). Also try Café de la Promenade in Bourgueil (17km/20 mins).

If you want to go a touch smarter and still sit next to the banks of the Loire, then we love nearby Bréhémont’s La Cabane à Matelot (17km/20 mins): Romain is a Loire fisherman and a bit of a cook; Ambroise is a professional chef and also a fisherman…and together they created La Cabane. Fish is caught by Romain and served with flair by Ambroise. Creative cooking with river fish; great atmosphere. Seating is outside only, so it’s a seasonal choice. It is on the Loire à Vélo cycle route; cyclists are welcome.

PS: This was the view from our table.

Les Jardiniers (13km/17 mins) in Ligré, so close by - and excellent - that I have also listed it under Chinon restaurants too, but technically it qualifies as an out-of-towner. New and very well reviewed, with plenty of vegetables as the name rather implies (but by no means a vegetarian restaurant) Les Jardiniers is just a little out of town. The couple behind it used to run the successful Chinon restaurant, La Part des Anges.

Unassuming and authentic, we can’t recommend this little gem enough. Auberge du 12ème Siècle (25km/25 mins) in Saché is produces excellent food that is also great value, compared to what you’d traditionally expect to pay for such fine fare. Run by a hard working couple, the chef and servers are a real team: he often takes the dishes out to tables, clears plates and is in charge of your bill.

PS: We sent gluten-free guests here and they were both amazed and delighted.

Just as I think that there can't possibly be another place to suggest, my list would not be complete without mentioning Auberge des Isles (45km/42 mins) in Montreuil-Bellay (close to Saumur - you could tie it in with a day trip to Saumur and its excellent Saturday morning market). Nestled by the banks of the River Thouet, under the shadow of the castle, it’s not just the setting that makes it special —but the food too. They have a lovely shady terrace than can accommodate 80, with room for indoor dining too.

Copied across for completeness from our page on Chinon restaurants (as I don’t really consider them to be out of town, but technically they are) is authentic and charming Auberge de Côteaux (10km/15 mins). Full of wine-makers at lunchtime, it forms an important part of the community at Cravant-les-Côteaux. Try the wine by Philippe Alliet. Booking recommended.

Same but different, yet with a similar rustic simplicity - and even closer to us - is Bistrot Le Jeanne d’Arc (5km/7 mins) in our nearby village of Huismes. Read about it here (you can also cycle to it in 15 mins, door-to-door).