Out-of-Town Restaurants

As ever, book ahead during the summer (and read all the way down to the end! Lots to recommend)

Le Ververt (22km/25 mins) in picturesque Montsoreau also offers excellent food, all year round, paired with an excellent wine list (ask to sit outside ‘sur terrace’ if it’s warm weather). Food is beautifully presented yet without being nouvelle cuisine. One of my favourites.

A slightly more rustic and atmospheric choice if you are in the Montsoreau area would be the Auberge de la Route d’Or (20km/25 mins), found at the foot of the steps of an old church in pretty Candes-Saint-Martin, which is a charming village overlooking the confluence of the Vienne and the Loire (see PICNICS AND WILD SWIMMING) and sits right next to Montsoreau.

In nearby Azay-le-Rideau (combine your visit with a look around the recently refurbished Château d’Azay - see WHICH CHATEAUX?) try L’Épine (21km/20 mins; not pictured)

Le Terrier du Chateau (35km/40 mins) is in Saumur, with a rather splendid view of the château. Combine your lunch with a trip to Saumur’s bustling Saturday morning market and call in to historic Fontevraud on the way back to La Fuye.

If you are in Tours, then our choice is usually The New Molière (52km/45 mins), the brasserie in the beautiful old building next to the Opera House. It’s always full and serves classic dishes. We also love traditional Le Boeuf Sur La Place handily close to Les Halles (wonderful indoor food market, open every single day). Lastly if, despite being in France, you feel like eating excellent thin crust pizza, try Chez Pia.

Other nearby local, but charming, possibilities include the rustic riverside Café de la Loire in Chouzé-sur-Loire (15km/20 mins) run by Martine (mother) and Clement (son). She has exquisite taste and used to own the Brocante shop in Chinon, so expect paired down simplicity with a menu to match. One of the few restaurants that has a view of the Loire without a busy road in front of it. Booking is essential. They are only open Thursday-Sunday for lunch and dinner (although dinner is just an assiette: she only cooks at lunchtime). They have also now opened their own Brocante a few doors down. Also try Café de la Promenade in Bourgueil (17km/20 mins).

If you want to go a touch smarter and still sit next to the banks of the Loire, then we love nearby Bréhémont’s La Cabane à Matelot (17km/20 mins): Romain is a Loire fisherman and a bit of a cook; Ambroise is a professional chef and also a fisherman…and together they created La Cabane. Fish is caught by Romain and served with flair by Ambroise. Creative cooking with river fish; great atmosphere. Seating is outside only, so it’s a seasonal choice. It is on the Loire à Vélo cycle route; cyclists are welcome.

PS: This was the view from our table.

Les Jardiniers (13km/17 mins) in Ligré, so close by - and excellent - that I have also listed it under Chinon restaurants too, but technically it qualifies as an out-of-towner. New and very well reviewed, with plenty of vegetables as the name rather implies (but by no means a vegetarian restaurant) Les Jardiniers is just a little out of town. They have recently won a Michelin Green Star.

Just as I think that there can't possibly be another place to suggest, my list would not be complete without mentioning the unassuming and authentic Auberge du 12ème Siècle (25km/25 mins) in Saché. It produces excellent food that is also great value, compared to what you’d traditionally expect to pay for such fine fare. Run by a hard working couple, the chef and servers are a real team: he often takes the dishes out to tables, clears plates and is in charge of your bill.

PS: We sent gluten-free guests here and they were both amazed and delighted.

Copied across for completeness from our page on Chinon restaurants: (as I don’t really consider it to be out of town, but technically it is) the authentic and charming Auberge de Côteaux (10km/15 mins). Full of wine-makers at lunchtime, it forms an important part of the community at Cravant-les-Côteaux. Try the wine by Philippe Alliet. Booking recommended. There is a shady terrace out the back for summertime. PS: The route from La Fuye to the auberge takes you past the ‘Emily in Paris’ Chateau (it wasn’t in Champagne, it was Chinon!).

Same but different, yet with a similar rustic simplicity - and even closer to us - is Bistrot Le Jeanne d’Arc (5km/7 mins) in our nearby village of Huismes. Read about it here (you can also cycle to it in 15 mins, door-to-door). Indoor and outdoor seating.